Bonjour Haiti! Andrea McLeod and I arrived safely into Port au Prince, capital of Haiti yesterday afternoon, a few days ahead of the 2-week Promart Haiti international art camp – and hit the ground running. We were met at the airport by our friends and colleagues, Sandra Russo and Prensnelo, and taken on a short tour, on route to a quick lunch. We skipped coffee and dessert, because we had a 5pm appointment with an art show organised and curated by Kolectif 509 founders, Xavier Dalencour and Valérie Noisette.
Kolektif 509 http://www.kolektif509.com/ encourages new contemporary artists to move outside of their comfort zones. This exhibit of 9 artists was well worth missing dessert, and was the sweet highlight to the end of our first (half) day in Haiti.
Early this Sunday morning, we went for a walk, accompanied by Prensnelo. At Place St Pierre (across from the Catholic church with service in session), we saw several persons pushing wheelbarrows packed with paintings, and spoke with them. A few were themselves painters, but the majority were salesmen for various artists, setting up their stalls for the day.
Later we visited the artisan village Croix des Bouquets on Rue Noailles. We met up with artisans Jean Robert, Jean Baptiste and Jacques Eugene who showed us around their studios. Jean Robert works in two types of sculpture: ‘recyclage’ – items from found objects – and items from flattened and pounded metal drums. Jacques, who also works in sculptures from metal drums, elects to paint them in surreal colourscapes.
Jean Baptiste is the undisputed bead artisan of the village. He has represented Haiti at the International Folk Art Festival in Santa Fe, New Mexico with his intricate and complex beaded wall art. We both were grateful for the insights given to us by these, and other artisans, on the methods and techniques they employ to create such stunning art. Jacques Eugene has a personal shrine at the rear of his studio, in between two trees. I placed a small coin offering there, with his permission, towards prosperity and good luck for this and future endeavours.
Back at hotel Le Perroquet, Andrea and I held spirited discussion over what we learned today, and considered ways in which we could share this information with artisans at home. I visited Haiti last year, and was interested in Andrea’s first impressions. She said, “It’s busy, but I feel like I’ve been here before; it all seems so familiar.” And her feeling about the work at Croix des Bouquets? She wanted to buy everything, and it was very difficult for her to limit herself to 6 small purchases, and walk away.
Looking forward to tomorrow. On the agenda visit the National Museum of Haiti and see, among other things, the gun with which Henri Christophe, King of Haiti (born in Grenada 1767) killed himself.