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For the next few days, I am in Xi’an, China’s ancient capital city, and famously, home of the Terracotta warriors. I remember reading about the discovery of the Terracotta army when I was still wet behind the ears, and wondered if I would ever get to see one of the clay figures.

Wednesday, 17 May, was that day. I went to the Qinshihuang Mausoleum Museum, home of the terracotta sculptures, and in truth, the figures are as striking as they appear in print. More so. The energy at the museum was electric. Masses of people came out to see the warriors.

First glance inside the Qinshihuang Mausoleum Museum. Photo: SLCT

According to the museum site, the pits lie to the east of the Mausoleum of Qin Shihuang. Our guide took us from Pit 1 to Pit 3, but I think the word chasm is better than pit, as the excavations must have been over 20 feet deep. But the figures, nearly 8,000 humans and horses, were sensational. My mind was blown by the workmanship and the details I saw up close up in a few reconstructions encased in glass boxes. Eerily lifelike, the sculptures looked like if you blew on them, they could come to life.

Horse and soldier, Qinshihuang Mausoleum Museum. Photo: SLCT

Soldier, Qinshihuang Mausoleum Museum. Photo: SLCT

At least 3 police officers were on guard on ramparts within the railings, to thwart any overzealous visitor who may distract the archaeologists we saw hard at work. Compared to the scale of the pits, we humans appeared like ants. There was too much of a crush of people to stand still and meditate, so I quickly took photos, moved on to the next available space at the railing, took more photos, and kept going until I reached the exit, connected with my group, and it was time to leave.

Archaeologists at work, Qinshihuang Mausoleum Museum. Photo: SLCT

The impressive sculptural collection is funerary art; a massive army buried to protect China’s first emperor Qin Shihuang and his tomb, and attend to him in the afterlife. I remember being fascinated by the story of a river of mercury in the emperor’s tomb, again as a security measure against tomb robbers, but there was no mention during the tour.

Sculptures within a trench, Qinshihuang Mausoleum Museum. Photo: SLCT

Imagine what those farmers must have thought, in 1974, when they uncovered the first clay figure, and the excitement that and subsequent discoveries generated. Thousands of years of history, carefully guarded and conserved, are visited by over 60,000 people a day at the museum. To be clear, the museum sells 60,000 tickets daily, 365 days a year, but elders and children are allowed in free of charge. Testament to the enduring power of heritage, and the skill of close to 700,000 Chinese craftsmen involved in the sculptures’ construction.

Of course, it could just be the ice cream.

Terracotta Army ice cream. Photo: SLCT